Retinol: effect, application and the best products for radiant skin

Retinol is the best-studied anti-ageing ingredient of all – and yet it makes most people nervous. Rightly so? Not if you know how to use it. Used correctly, retinol is unbeatable against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and a dull complexion – and a perfect ingredient in the Glass Skin routine.

What is retinol and how does it work?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A – the upper category of retinoids. In the skin, it is converted into retinoic acid, which acts directly on the cell nuclei. The result:

• Cell renewal is accelerated: Old cells are shed faster, new ones form more quickly
• Collagen production increases: The main cause of the anti-aging effect
• Pigment spots fade: Melanin synthesis is inhibited
• Pores refine: less sebum, tighter pore structure

Retinol strengths: What to start with?

This is the most common mistake: too much concentration when getting started. The result: redness, flaking, over-irritation. Combining retinol with a good hyaluronic serum significantly reduces irritation. Start right:

• Beginners: 0.025% – 0.1%: start once a week, then increase slowly
• Advanced: 0.3% – 0.5%: 2-3x per week when the skin is accustomed
• Experienced: 0.5% – 1%: Daily, but always with moisturizer underneath (sandwich method)

The sandwich method: retinol without irritation

The sandwich method is the best beginner’s technique: moisturizer – retinol – moisturizer. The cream “dilutes” the retinol contact with the skin and drastically reduces irritation without completely eliminating the effect. Ideal for the first 4-8 weeks.

Best retinol products

Beginner

• The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane (~7 Euro): Inexpensive, effective, well tolerated due to squalane base
• CeraVe Retinol Serum (~18 euros): With niacinamide and ceramides – soothes at the same time
• Eucerin Anti-Pigment Dual Serum (~35 euros): 0.1% retinol, specially formulated for pigmentation spots

Advanced

• RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Serum (~35 euros): Classic with proven effect
• Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol (~60 euros): High concentration, well buffered with hyaluronic acid and vitamin C
• Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 (~57 euros): Retinaldehyde instead of retinol – more effective and better tolerated

Retinol and sun: the most important rule

Retinol belongs exclusively in the evening routine. It makes the skin more sensitive to light. In the morning: always use SPF 50+. This is not an option – it’s mandatory. More on optimal sun protection in the K-Beauty product guide (Korean sunscreens are among the best on the market).

What should retinol not be combined with?

• AHA/BHA: Never use at the same time – too irritating. Alternate: Retinol Mon/Wed/Fri, peeling Tue/Thu
• Vitamin C: Different pH ranges – vitamin C in the morning, retinol in the evening, no problem
• Benzoyl peroxide: Deactivates retinol – never use together

When will we see the first results?

The first improvements can be seen after 4-6 weeks: smoother texture, more even complexion. Significant results for pigmentation spots and fine lines after 3-6 months. Retinol is not a sprint – those who are consistent will be rewarded in the long term.