Maximilian Gedra fall / winter 2024

In his new collection, Maximilian Gedra presents a range of looks that are unique, from theatrical model walks to the extraterrestrial elegance of the designs. His fashion plays with volume and texture, embodying the essence of avant-garde fashion. At once a homage to traditional haute couture and a bold statement on street fashion that pushes the boundaries of conventional clothing and enriches the catwalks with a new, provocative aesthetic.

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Gillian Neumann

Maximilian Gedra: New voice of Berlin high fashion

With his high fashion brand, the Berlin designer presents a bold fusion of timeless elegance and avant-garde design. The collections break with conventional gender norms and show a harmonious combination of opulent textures and bold silhouettes. Each piece is a tribute to the freedom and diversity of the Berlin fashion scene, created to blur the boundaries between past, present and future.

More about Maximilian Gedra

Discover more from Maximilian Gedra here:

• Maximilian Gedra Shop
• Maximilian Gedra Instagram
• Maximilian Gedra TikTok

Marina Hoermanseder fall / winter 2024

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Franziska Krug

Marina Hoermanseder: Master of her craft

Marina Hoermanseder is known for her unique creations that combine traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics. With a penchant for offbeat cuts, unexpected details and a playful use of materials, she creates surreal yet wearable fashion. Her designs are often characterized by signature leatherwork and buckles that add a touch of boldness and elegance.

More about Marina Hoermanseder

Discover more from Marina Hoermanseder here:

• Marina Hoermanseder store
• Marina Hoermanseder Instagram
• Marina Hoermanseder TikTok

Kilian Kerner Fall / Winter 2024

The Kilian Kerner collection is a breathtaking demonstration of dramatic glamor and sophisticated opulence. It plays with lustrous textures, flowing fabrics and a palette that ranges from mystical gray and nocturnal blue to earthy brown and passionate pink. The silhouettes are both sculptural and fluid, creating a fascinating tension between futuristic sharpness and classic elegance.

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Getty Images

Kilian Kerner: Designer for Heidi Klum, Rita Ora, Fergie

Kilian Kerner has been active in the fashion world as a designer since 2003. He has regularly shown his collections at Berlin Fashion Week since 2008 and is one of the capital’s established designers. Kilian’s style has a great appeal to international and national personalities. His fans include celebrities such as Heidi Klum, Rita Ora, Fergie, Kylie Minogue, Bill Kaulitz, Angelique Kerber, Jella Haase, Jacob Rott and Riccardo Simonetti.

More about Kilian Kerner

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• Kilian Kerner Shop
• Kilian Kerner Instagram

Danny Reinke fall / winter 2024

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Andreas Rentz for Getty Images

Backstage interview with Danny Reinke

We interviewed designer Danny Reinke exclusively behind the scenes of his Fall / Winter 2024 runway show after the show. Backstage at the Verti Music Hall, Berlin:

FIV: Danny, thank you very much for taking the time for this interview. How does it feel to be here today?

Danny Reinke: It’s very exciting, of course. Today is the third time that “W.E4.FASHIONDAY” has taken place. This collaboration came about after Mercedes-Benz withdrew. Some of us were suddenly left without a platform, but then we joined forces to create something new.

FIV: Why did you come together specifically as a group of four?

Danny Reinke: After Mercedes-Benz dropped out, we had to act quickly. Kilian Kerner first contacted Marcel Ostertag, and soon afterwards Rebeca Ruétz and I joined him. The idea was to get something off the ground together. It was a spontaneous decision that came about through direct communication and mutual admiration for each other’s work.

FIV: Today you are supporting a project close to your heart. Why did you choose the Müritz Bear Sanctuary?

Danny Reinke: My decision was based on a personal experience. Last year, I visited the Müritz bear sanctuary and the emotions that this visit triggered inspired me to create my first collection. It was important to me to give the bear sanctuary renewed visibility and to tell a story with the collection, which is also symbolized by the bear brooches.

FIV: Your current collection is called “The Dreams in the Cupboard”. What inspired you to create this name and the collection?

Danny Reinke: On the one hand, “The Dreams in the Cupboard” symbolizes the dreams that our clothes embody – the dreams that you fulfill when you buy a piece of clothing. On the other hand, the name refers to my personal “Wunderkammer”, a collection of thoughts, memories and stories that are important to me. This collection expresses the contents of my Wunderkammer and connects them to the concept of dreaming, both metaphorically and literally.

FIV: Do you still feel as excited today as you did when you started your first collection?

Danny Reinke: The routine is there, but the excitement and tension remain the same every season. I challenge myself to top every collection, which naturally brings with it a certain amount of nervousness. But thanks to my great team, who I can rely on, I know that together we can overcome anything. Fashion is a team effort and I am grateful for the people I get to work with.

FIV: Danny, thank you very much for the open conversation and the insights into your work and motivations.

Danny Reinke: Thank you, it was a pleasure.

Danny Reinke: Sustainable designs made by hand

Danny Reinke is an up-and-coming fashion designer from Berlin, known for his commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. His label produces all of its garments by hand in Berlin and places great importance on the highest quality and durability. Reinke sets an example for environmentally conscious fashion through customized production on demand and ecologically responsible production standards.

More about Danny Reinke

Discover more from Danny Reinke here:

• Danny Reinke Shop
• Danny Reinke Instagram
• Danny Reinke TikTok

Haderlump fall / winter 2024

The new Haderlump collection presents a dark, almost dystopian aesthetic characterized by a palette of muted colors and rich textures. The focus is on structuring and layering, with a mix of robust and delicate fabrics that create a futuristic and deconstructed silhouette. The thoughtful interplay of traditional cuts and experimental details makes the range a captivating example of modern, conceptual design.

Fashion show in Berlin

Check out the whole show here, the collection is so Berlin:

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Moritz Högemann

Haderlump redefines sustainable fashion

Haderlump from Berlin stands for transparency and sustainability in fashion. With a collaborative approach and a strong commitment to disclosing their practices, the brand relies on materials from recycled sources such as the “Textilhafen Berlin” and deadstock fabrics from Recovo. Personal relationships with suppliers underline their commitment to ethical sourcing and their vision of a circular economy in the fashion industry.

More about Haderlump

Discover more from Haderlump here:

• Haderlump Shop
• Haderlump Instagram
• Haderlump TikTok

The new BFW format, curated by Reference Studios, has said goodbye to seasonal noise and selects only about 12 to 15 labels per issue. Bobkova fits this profile exactly – and at the same time delivers the most intriguing outsider story. Those who want to follow further currents in parallel will find a compact overview of all fashion brands from A to Z with us.

Why Bobkova shows in Berlin – and what this means structurally

Since 1998, Kristina Bobkova has presented her collections at the Ukrainian Fashion Week, which was itself founded only in 1997. Bobkova started showing her designs from season two. This does not make her an established brand, but rather places her as part of the founding generation of the Ukrainian ready-to-wear industry. Litkovskaya, Frolov, Ksenia Schnaider – all names that are now circulated through international fashion press – are in fact the subsequent generation.

The fact that the autumn/winter collection came to the runway in Berlin is not a PR move, but a result of a structural shift. After the Russian invasion, the fashion calendar in Kyiv was suspended – the initiative “Ukrainian Fashion Week Goes Global” has since been distributing selected designers to international stages: Copenhagen, London, Paris, Milan, and Berlin.

Bobkova was part of the first cohort to show in Copenhagen before she came to Berlin. That is relevant because it positions the brand as an already established international player – not as a newcomer who just happens to gain visibility. Anyone who knows the Milan Fashion Week will immediately notice: Berlin is playing a different game today.

Berlin Contemporary: Curated Ambition Instead of Seasonal Noise

Reference Studios, the Berlin agency behind the curation, also manages editorial brands like Highsnobiety and 032c. This shifts the slot from “commercially rented” to “editorially curated” – a significant difference from the old BFW mass format. For Bobkova, this means maximum visibility among the right buyers, stylists, and press representatives. Anyone interested in the Berlin scene will also find background information on shows like Marcel Ostertag, the designer duo holyGhost, designer Marcell von Berlin, or archive material on Ewa Herzog, the Green Showroom, and I’VR Isabel Vollrath.

“Bobkova redefines Casual Wear – with timeless designs that remain relevant regardless of time and situation.” – Brand philosophy that became visible on the Berlin runway.

Japanese cut discipline – but via Antwerp, not Tokyo

Here lies the crucial point that most show recaps miss: Bobkova’s cut logic is not originally Japanese, but translated via the Antwerp Six. The Antwerp Six became known in 1986 in London through a joint delivery of their work to a designer fair – this generation references Bobkova, not the Japanese original wave of the early 80s around Yamamoto and Kawakubo.

The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp selects only a handful of fashion students per year from three-digit application numbers – this rigor explains why the school has developed such a consistent aesthetic language. Bobkova works exactly in this tradition: structured, less deconstructed than the Japanese role models, filtered through Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten. It is the wearable version of a radical idea.

Concretely, this means:

• ✓ Abandonment of classic western darts and seams
• ✓ Volumetric draping over two-dimensional pattern logic
• ✓ Negative space – fabric emerges between body and silhouette
• ✓ Asymmetry as a construction principle, not as decoration
• ✓ Consistent dissolution of gender boundaries in the cut
• ✓ Focus on technical wool qualities and crepe fabrics with drape

The principle behind it carries a Japanese name: “Ma” (間) – the conscious emptiness between two elements. Yohji Yamamoto built his entire pattern philosophy on this, Bobkova translates it into crepe draping. While established houses like Dior or Gucci work with couture seams and body-shaping construction, Bobkova takes the opposite approach: the fabric falls, drapes, floats. The result are garments that function regardless of body type – a significant difference from the western couture DNA.

Bobkova vs. western pattern logic in direct comparison

Die Herbstkollektion: Erntezeit als visuelle Klammer

More than 30 looks were presented by Bobkova on the Berlin runway – inspired by nature and the ripe fruits of harvest time. The color palette consistently follows this logic: beige, off-white, rich wine and muted plum tones. No bright colors, no seasonal statements – instead, a color system that works just as well in five years as it does today. This is anti-trend positioning in its purest form and the reason why the pieces don’t burn out in the trend cycle like at NA-KD or in the volume market of Zalando.

Especially noticeable: prints that show stylized fields and orchards, and individual key looks are adorned with them. These prints are not just decoration, but tell a story about soil, home and cycle – a reading that is not coincidental in the context of the designer’s origin. Those who are print-affine and looking for alternatives to classic animal prints will find an unusually narrative variation here.

Three Looks That Will Stay

Out of the more than 30 looks, three stand out: a cream-colored oversized tailoring set that exemplifies Japanese tailoring logic – shouldered, hip-hiding, without a single classic dart. A dark wine ensemble with asymmetrical draping on the upper body, making the Antwerp influence tangible. And a look with a harvest field print, which makes the conceptual thread of the collection visible.

Photos: Boris Marberg

The Complete Fashion Show in Video

Who wants to watch the entire show in motion will find the recording of the runway here:

Kristina Bobkova: 25 Years of Brand Leadership Against Every Economic Cycle

At 23, Kristina Bobkova founded her label – that was in 1998. This makes Bobkova older than almost every other Ukrainian brand with international ambitions. While the younger generation is now featured in international fashion press, Bobkova’s brand built itself quietly over two decades. This is the prerequisite for a brand not to burn out in the trend cycle – a risk that streetwear-driven labels constantly face.

Notable is the operational consequence: The atelier in Kyiv remained productive even after the war began – a central difference to labels that moved to Paris or Lisbon. Whoever buys a Bobkova piece is buying something that was made in a country with air raid alerts. This reality is not marketing, but a production factor. Structurally closer to houses like Prada or DKNY than to the fast-paced mainstream à la Pimkie. Even when compared to brands from the overview with D or with P, the aesthetic independence becomes clear.

Genderless, before it was called Genderless

Bobkova’s signature is the consciously gender-neutral line – looks that work just as well for men’s fashion enthusiasts as for the female clientele. This approach was already part of the DNA in the mid-2010s, long before the market found a response. Today, the mainstream is catching up – Bobkova has been there for a long time.

The collections rethink gender-specific stereotypes in clothing – with a focus on technological fabrics and unusual craftsmanship.

Where can you get Bobkova – and at what price?

The direct source of supply is the brand’s own online shop. Availability through major German retailers like Zalando or mass retailers like NA-KD is deliberately not established – that would be a break with the brand’s positioning. Instead, the approach is through concept stores that curate Ukrainian designers: in Berlin Andreas Murkudis and Voo Store, in Vienna Park, in Copenhagen Storm.

Priced within the upper premium segment: tailoring pieces starting from the mid-three-digit range, statement coats in the low four-digit range, simpler knit and jersey pieces starting from the lower three-digit range. This positions it clearly below houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, but distinctly above the designer mid-market. Those interested in the larger fashion markets will also find Fashion and Shopping in New York as well as an Overview of Luxury Shopping in New York with us.

Three reasons why Bobkova has international relevance

First: The brand is conceptually stable. The aesthetic line has evolved since the late 1990s without betraying its identity.

Happy Socks “Solids” collection

The Happy Socks show at Berlin Fashion Week was an unexpected highlight that surprised visitors. Although a sock brand may be atypical for a fashion show, Happy Socks showed how creative and versatile socks can be. The Happy Socks collection presents a wide range of monochromatic socks that add that little something extra to any look. These minimalist designs feature bold colors and a versatile range of styles, from crew socks to sneaker socks.

Promotional film for the new collection

Take a look at the entire Solids collection here:

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Indigo Lewisohn

Happy Socks x Theresa Gross

More about Happy Socks

Discover more from Happy Socks here:

• Happy Socks Shop
• Happy Socks Instagram
• Happy Socks TikTok

Dzhus fall / winter 2024

During the Dzhus Runway Show, an act of fashion metamorphosis unfolds: Irina Dzhus herself is part of a dynamic runway act in which an outfit is transformed into a new look before the eyes of the audience. It is a production that celebrates fashion as a changeable and performative art. The models remain standing in front of her on the runway and Irina Dzhus carefully transforms the avant-garde textiles into a different look.

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: Boris Marberg

Irina Dzhus: Visionary of sustainable fashion

In the world of fashion, Irina Dzhus is a pioneer of sustainability and innovation. As the creative mind behind the Ukrainian concept label DZHUS, she has gained international recognition with her avant-garde designs. Since its foundation in 2010, the label has consistently focused on ethical materials and vegetarian production practices. Irina Dzhu’s commitment goes beyond fashion: despite political challenges, DZHUS continues to donate 30% of its profits to Ukrainian animal welfare organizations. A true pioneer in the industry, proving that style and sustainability can go hand in hand.

More about Dzhus

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• Dzhu’s store
• Dzhu’s Instagram

Anja Gockel Fall / Winter 2024

The collection impresses with its versatility and youthful charm. Highlights include the interplay of patterns and colors, such as the deep black with vibrant floral appliqués and the combination of classic check patterns. Each piece embodies a different character and style, from rock-chic to romantic and playful to powerful and dramatic. The fashion show in the impressive lobby of the Hotel Adlon was given a very special flair by the establishment.

3 highlights from the catwalk

Anja Gockel: Timeless elegance

Anja Gockel’s fashion embodies timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Her collections celebrate the diversity of femininity and combine classic tailoring with innovative design. Each piece exudes self-confidence while offering comfort and freedom of movement. Gockel’s attention to detail and high-quality materials give her fashion a timeless quality that reflects current trends yet embodies timeless elegance.

More about Anja Gockel

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• Anja Gockel Shop
• Anja Gockel Instagram

PLNGNS Fall / Winter 2024

The “Ain’t it different?” collection by Mitya Hontarenko for PLNGNS presented a fascinating fusion of sustainability, craftsmanship and zeitgeist. The looks consisted exclusively of upcycled and recycled materials, mainly sneakers, and showcased various upcycling methods that can be integrated into any collection.

Fashion show in Berlin

You can see the whole fashion show directly at Alexanderplatz in Berlin here:

3 highlights from the catwalk

Photos: James Cochrane

PLNGNS: Customized upcycling designs

PLNGNS, also known as Palingenesy, looks for new silhouettes by rethinking existing ones. The brand transforms old, mismatched shoes into bespoke design pieces that promote sustainable development in fashion. The idea behind the label is to create an eco-friendly alternative to consumer culture and reduce the carbon footprint. With an innovative approach to upcycling, PLNGNS sets an example against the throwaway culture and calls for a change in the way big fashion companies handle their material waste.

More about PLNGNS

Discover more from PLNGNS here:

• PLNGNS Shop
• PLNGNS Instagram